A Pizza the Action

Although the individual-size pizzas also are heavy on the dough, the oak grilling makes for an airy, crunchy crust filled with bubbles and pockets. The Margherita ($4.95) comes covered with mozzarella and Parmesan, with a sizable amount of garlic and basil thrown in; fresh tomato slices are tucked between the cheese and the olive oil almost like an afterthought rather than the main attraction they are. A bite of tomato with the rest of the toppings is pure heaven, and I could easily have gobbled more than the four slices that make up a small pie.

The same dough is used for Wazoos calzones, which come in four varieties or, like the pizza, can be built from a list of ingredients. Our choice, the Paisan ($5.50), was jam-packed with sausage, pepperoni and freshly cooked mushrooms with lots of mozzarella and Parmesan. On the side was that mild-mannered marinara, over the top a thick layer of more mozzarella. Under that topping, though, we discovered a shiny black coating of very burned calzone. The scorching didn't affect the flavor as much as we feared it would--but it didn't help our attitude any.

After all, man does not live by burned bread alone. If Wazoos wants to attract diners as well as drinkers, the kitchen needs to grow up.

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