The bleached blonde wet her lips, leaned forward and pressed her hand dramatically against the mammoth mammary glands that were on the verge of busting out of her black evening dress like two fat kids escaping an overheated car. "The problem with DIA," she said, "is that a minority mayor hired minority companies that weren't qualified to do the job."

By this time, we were getting used to the astute commentary of Bridgette, our lovely dining companion at the Diamond Cabaret Steakhouse. The truth is, Bridgette turned out to be the dinner date of the year--she was beautiful, yes, but she was also charming, witty, warm and wonderful. The fact that earlier in the evening she had been standing on a table allowing a half-dozen guys to perform a visual gynecological exam of her G-string-clad body was quickly forgiven and forgotten, and we wound up eating, drinking, laughing and gossiping with her. In short, we had a hell of a good time.

Which is exactly what you pay for at the Diamond Cabaret, and I do mean pay. Forget for a moment the $100 fee to have a lady hang on your every word for the evening (pick a skinny one--you shell out for her meal, too), and forget the additional $20 to have your date hoist herself on top of your table and do the hokey pokey. Dinner for two at the Steakhouse will cost no less than $60, and that includes nothing but two side dishes and two pieces of meat (let's dispense with those jokes right now). Of course, those are big pieces (let this also be the last time I mention that everything at the Diamond Cabaret is big, including the portions). But you're not just paying for the food--you're also covering that cutie languidly twisting and turning in a cage set in the middle of the velvety red, dimly lighted dining room.

Location Info


Diamond Cabaret & Steakhouse

1222 Glenarm Place
Denver, CO 80202

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Downtown Denver

For me, the only nonemployee female in the place during our visit, there are better ways to spend money. On a personal trainer to help me get a body like one of these dancers, for example. But for my guests, one of whom was my husband (who wins the Academy Award for Guy Trying to Appear Uninterested), and the other a friend of ours, a visit to the Diamond Cabaret was like having all the Playboy Playmates leap off the pages and into their laps. And since we knew it was going to cost us, we endeavored to get our money's worth.

The first thing we did after taking our seats in the tastefully decorated Steakhouse (separated from the Cabaret, where the real action takes place, by a tinted window) was to go over our criteria for a dinner mate for our friend, who--no joke--is named Dick. Dick was looking for a real woman, one with whom he could have a rousing, if platonic, evening. My husband, whom we'll call Dimples--Bridgette embarrassed him by playfully mentioning this particular attribute of his--stipulated that she had to be stacked. I just wanted someone who wouldn't want to talk about hairspray the whole time. Astonishingly, Bridgette was all that and more. Lots more.

So there we were: me, Dick, Dimples and Bridgette (we got to pick her outfit, too), pretending that it was perfectly normal for us to be stuffing our faces ten feet away from a dancer wearing nothing but a rubber band and a pair of perkies. After our initial heart attack over the prices and a quick refiguring of the budget, we settled on two $25 bottles of wine, the cheapest available (prices go up to $200 per bottle). Bridgette gave the toast. "To honor," she said. "And I mean get honor and stay honor." (Read it again; perhaps you missed it.) She then told us that just about everything on the menu was fabulous except for the chicken, which she thought was dry and chewy. Since this is a steakhouse, it seemed wise to go with a steak or two, although the corporation that owns the Diamond Cabaret also owns the Fresh Fish Company (as well as Proof of the Pudding and the Boiler Room), so ordering fish didn't seem out of line, either.

But first we had to resist the sales pitch of our waitress, Tina, who really should be selling cars. She almost had us talked into an appetizer platter, which would have set us back $12 a person. Instead, we opted to split two salads, which turned out to be a wise move. The Caesar ($4.95) was a mountain of romaine mixed with a fairly decent dressing flavored with anchovy paste; parmesan clung to the sides. The dressing on the large bowl of well-cleaned spinach ($4.75) arrived warm and filled with bacon, but the fresh mushrooms were mushy and past their prime.

In the meat category--easy there, fella--the prime rib beat out the filet mignon (both $25.95). Both were top-quality cuts and arrived cooked as ordered, but the filet's charred exterior had dried out. An order of grilled swordfish ($20.95) brought an entire cross-section of a mighty specimen, tender and dripping with juices. But the single eight-ounce lobster tail ($24.95) had been cooked too long, and its sweetness had evaporated into the stove hood.

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