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Everything's Sip-Shape

It was smooth sailing at Broadway Brewing, too. Quite a bit more bustling than Breckenridge's Kalamath outpost, Broadway Brewing is a full-fledged hangout. The funky, art-filled space in the 1911 Silver State Laundry Building is owned by Wynkoop and Aspen's Flying Dog Brewery; as you might expect, their beers are the most heavily featured, although a half-dozen others are offered on a rotating basis.

But food doesn't take a back seat to beer here. Since it opened almost three years ago, Broadway Brewing has put a lot of effort into its menu. The best item, though, is still the rotisserie chicken ($8.50), a whole crisp-skinned bird stiffly coated with herbs and spices and accompanied by a thick, mayo-mortared potato salad. The chicken's interior was skin-fat slick and falling-apart tender, and the sharp bite of the rub made for a delectable balance of sweet meat and seasonings. Fowl has another starring role in the chicken burrito ($5.75), a fat bundle of moist chicken hunks, chopped red onion, Jack and cheddar cheeses and black olives, all seemingly soaked with jalapeno juice and barely contained by the flour tortilla; the trimmings included tomatoes, lettuce and sour cream, along with a freshly tossed, cilantro-garnished salsa. With so many bad takes on this popular item out there--most served in places that foolishly call themselves "Mexican grills"--Broadway's burrito was a straightforward standout.

Although the rest of the roster consists of more typical pub grub--pizzas, calzones, lettuce-heavy salads and huge sandwiches of roast beef or meatballs--it's all well-executed fare. A small white pizza ($7) came topped with barely cooked garlic, sliced romas and melted mozzarella sharpened with romano. The football-sized spinach calzone ($5.75) spurted ricotta from its recesses and overflowed with garlic, romas and long strands of mozzarella. The highlight of both the pizza and calzone was the dough, a yeasty, beer-fortified blend that also popped up as beer-bread rolls for sandwiches. The crusty shell and bubble-spongy interior was the perfect holder for the hoagie ($5.50), a monster tower of top-quality salami, ham, capicola and provolone wet down with Italian dressing. A couple of mugs of Old Scratch and Railyard Ale rounded out our provisions.

The four of us walked out of the Broadway stuffed with first-rate food and only $40 lighter.

Pilgrim, that's progress.

Breckenridge Brewery and Pub, 471 Kalamath Street, 573-0431. Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Friday.

Broadway Brewing, 2441 Broadway, 292-2555. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight Friday; noon-midnight Saturday; 5-10 p.m. Sunday.

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