Top

dining

Stories

 

Shine On

But that was one of only two quibbles I had with Dazzle. The other was that while October is designated as "oyster month" at the restaurant, only one oyster item was offered during each of my visits there--and neither was an attention-grabber. At dinner it was a dozen Malpeques--amusingly mispronounced by the otherwise knowledgeable staff, it alternately sounded as though the oysters hailed from Ireland (Malachy) or the Denver Zoo (Macaque). At lunch it was an oyster po'boy, which was much less intriguing than the rest of the menu.

Instead, we went with a tried-and-true repeat from Pinots: the Dungeness crabcakes ($9), which I'd picked as the best in town in the 1997 Best of Denver. They're still award-winning: two packages packed with crabmeat and herbs, held together by shells of crispy yet moist breadcrumbs. The cakes came with good fries and Roe's unique vanilla-bean slaw, a fresh, crunchy mix of red and green bell peppers and red and green cabbage with a fresh vanilla flavor. The country salad ($6) featured equally fresh mixed greens coated with vinaigrette and supplemented by grilled pears, roasted walnuts and Stilton cheese, a cheeky but welcome alternative to the usual gorgonzola. A creamy, zesty a•oli topped the perfect medium-rare fillet in the excellent entree salad of grilled Atlantic salmon with chilled Yukon gold potatoes and baby carrots ($11).

This time the dessert offerings were more varied and more remarkable, in keeping with the rest of the fine meal. While the decadent chocolate chip cookie ($5) was topped with chocolate ganache, the New York-style cheesecake ($5) boasted a thick coating of a sour-creamy creme fra”che that added a tangy jolt to each bite. The combination was, well, dazzling.

What wasn't was the tiny lunch business. Although Storck and Peterson, who run the front of the house, have managed to staff the place with refreshingly astute, efficient and downright charming servers and bartenders, their efforts often go unappreciated outside the late-night and weekend crowds. At lunch and during weekday dinners, Dazzle is sometimes so quiet that, amid all the brash colors and dramatic furniture, you feel like you're eating in an art museum--alone.

Fortunately, Roe creates dishes appropriate for the setting: They're masterpieces.

Dazzle, 930 Lincoln Street, 303-839-5100. Hours: 11 a.m.- 10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday; 5-11 p.m. Saturday.

« Previous Page
 |
 
1
 
2
 
All
 
My Voice Nation Help
0 comments
 
Loading...