Red Alert

A A A Comments By Kyle Wagner Thursday, Nov 19 1998

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On a return visit, we continued the sporting theme. The Amy Van Dyken cioppino ($24.95)--the Olympian isn't an owner, the waiter explained, but a buddy--was a delightful, soupy mix of seabass, scallops, mussels, clams, shrimps and calamari swimming in a brandy-spiked, red-pepper-rich broth. The veal parmigiana ($22.95) was another winner, an ample portion of breaded, fried meat smothered in mozzarella and baked in Sonny's notable fresh marinara.

But once again, the garlic rolls were crusty on the bottom. And the bruschetta ($1.75) wasn't the masterful merger it had been at Carmine's, but rather an oily slick of too much garlic and salt.

Location Info

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Pagliacci's Italian Restaurant

1440 W. 33rd Ave.
Denver, CO 80211

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Northwest Denver

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Santino's may well be a work in progress, as the menu suggests, and it appears to be headed in the right direction. But at some point, people are going to want it finished--and I don't think Denver's willing to wait fifty years for that.

Pagliacci's, 1440 West 33rd Avenue, 303-458-0530. Santino's, 1939 Blake Street, 303-298-1939.

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