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On a return visit, my dining pal went crazy with the ingredients and created a stir-fry from hell: too much rosemary, too much mustard sauce, not enough oil. The server took the full bowl away and cheerfully told her to try again. She went with one of the suggested combinations from the kids' menu, but it wasn't any better. I decided it was safer to simply go for a big bowl of lamb or pork, with no sauces or seasonings. The super-hot grill does do a nice job of searing in those juices.

Not everything at BD's gets a grilling. There's a salad bar, which includes all the usual suspects--all fresh, like the grilling ingredients, and also not particularly exciting. That bar features two soups as well. I tried the bland chicken noodle and a vegetable mix that tasted like it came straight from a #10 can.

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BD's Mongolian Barbeque

1620 Wazee St.
Denver, CO 80202

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: Downtown Denver

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The only parts of the meal that are brought by a server--if you can find one--are drinks, rice (clumpy and doughy) and tortillas (dry, chewy and incongruous). Although the staff is friendly enough--especially the dancing/singing/broccoli-juggling guys at the grill--it quickly becomes obvious that you'll have to do most of the work. And that includes reminding staffers over and over that you're missing a drink, missing a napkin, missing a check.

Then again, those Mongolian hordes didn't have many people to fetch and tote for them, either. So for them, it made sense to set their helmets over a roaring fire and stir up some grub. Their swords must have made quick work of food prep--and their nomadic lifestyle meant a Pizza Hut delivery was hard to come by. That five-mile radius has always been a bummer.

But with the advent of freezers and microwaves and all of those other time-saving conveniences Genghis never dreamed of, there's no need to subject your stomach to BD's trial by fire. Conquering hunger has got to be easier than this.

BD's Mongolian Barbeque, 1620 Wazee Street, 303-245-8387. Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-12:30 a.m. Friday-Saturday; noon-10 p.m. Sunday.

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