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Check, Please!

Give our food critic something to chew on.

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By Kyle Wagner

Published on February 10, 2000

Q: A few years ago in Port Arthur, Texas, in a working waterfront cafe/bar/dive, I had something called "rat toes." These were breaded, deep-fried jalapeños, stuffed with your choice of boudin (blanc) sausage or a bread/seafood/ broth filling. Both were marvelous. Anyplace in the Mile High City where I can find something similar?

A: I encountered rat toes in New Orleans -- edible ones, in addition to the live version running around my French Quarter hotel -- but I haven't seen them around these parts. Locally, my favorite stuffed-jalapeño preparation is at The Fort (19192 U.S. Highway 8, Morrison, 303-697-4771). Sam Arnold's Old-New West place fills the peppers with peanut butter, creating an addictive delicacy that Julia Child has called one of her top Denver food picks.