Good Things Come in Mall Packages
Saigon Terrace's authentic Vietnamese food turns Colorado Boulevard into Ho Chi Minh Trail.
On our first visit, Little House was out of the soft-shell crab ($9.95 for two); this time, we wished it were. The crispy crust was fine, but there was no mistaking the funky smell of too-old crab. Inside the hot soup pot ($14.95), we found more crab, this time claws cooked until their flesh had wrinkled; scallops the size and texture of pencil erasers; old, stringy cabbage and scallion pieces so poorly cut they looked like the remnants of another meal; and -- surprise -- mussels that tasted fine. The soup arrived in a Sterno-fired hot pot that roared until I started sweating and the liquid inside was in danger of disappearing altogether. Would that it had.
The ingredients in the soft rice noodles ($7.25) looked like they'd come from another pile of discards; the sauce was so bland we would have welcomed some black pepper. And while there was actual lemon flavor in the beef with lemon flavor ($7.95), the beef was tough and chewy, with only a few shards of wilted scallion greens for diversion.
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Saigon Terrace
1550 S. Colorado Blvd.
Denver, CO 80222
Category: Restaurant > Vietnamese
Region: Southeast Denver
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Details
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 4-10 p.m. Sunday.
Little House, 1140 West Littleton Boulevard, Littleton, 303-798-2333. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Friday; noon-9 p.m. Saturday
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Perhaps the folks at Little House should take a trip to Vietnam to experience true Vietnamese cooking. And at the very least, they could pick up a few pointers at Saigon Terrace.
