Best vegetarian dish in a non-vegetarian restaurant

The ultra-polished, romantic and enchanting Tante Louise offers up a spectacular array of French-inspired dishes that are as artfully presented as they are drop-dead delicious. There's so much to choose from that most diners never make it to the end of the menu's roster, much less order the Degustation des Legumes -- which, not quite literally, translates to Option for People Foolishly Willing to Miss Out on the Stunning Animal-Based Dishes We Offer. Of course, owner and consummate host Corky Douglass is far too polite to put it that way, but he's also savvy enough to recognize that this town has plenty of vegetarians searching for fine-dining alternatives. And so every night, Tante Louise chef Duy Pham devises a different three-course meal centered on such tempting entrees as black-barley terrine with wild mushrooms and almonds on a corn purée; the other two courses are a choice of salad (warm goat cheese, maybe, or bleu on frisée) and dessert. That's more than enough to keep the vegetarian at the table happy while his carnivorous companion sucks down a big plate of innocent-sounding, hazelnut-crusted sweetbreads -- otherwise known as thymus glands.