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The Spain Course

James Mazzio shows why he's the tapas.

While, traditionally, a talented chef might labor to create a single venue in which to express his artistry, and then insist on supervising his own kitchen, many contemporary chefs have learned from the chain stores. Mazzio hopes to open another Triana in Denver, and then still others. Despite his own dazzling reputation, he says he wants to create food that anybody can make. "If we do another Triana, everyone will be trained through here," he explains. "Everyone who goes to the next restaurant will be infused with a piece of my ideals."

Still, he'll allow for individual creativity. "Any chef I'd want to work with," Mazzio says, "I'd want him to stand on his own and feel it was his restaurant."

Meanwhile, Triana throbs with life and energy, and feels like nowhere else in town. Mazzio always intended it to be a warm and affordable place, he says, where customers can sample tapas, drink wine and skip the main course if they're so inclined. "Our goal isn't to be some culinary amazement where you're paying $20 to $30 dollars a plate for your entrees," he explains. "We really want to bring people together to drink champagne and wine and hang out with their friends and, you know, just live. There's no air of stuffiness there, or arrogance to the staff. We want people to feel they've just walked into a party at a friend's house."

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