Best Dinner After 1 a.m.

It's 3 a.m. You're tired and you're hungry. You don't want a Grand Slam -- you want some home cooking that'll calm your frazzled nerves. You want the real McCoys. Open 24-7 and operating diner-style, McCoys specializes in good, inexpensive comfort food: country-style fried chicken and mashed potatoes covered with pepper-speckled white gravy, a remarkably tasty plate of spaghetti with meatballs, and, of course, breakfast anytime, including big, fat cinnamon rolls with an icing roof. Really in need of comfort? Try the pot roast, drowning in dense, salty brown gravy and so cooked down it's like baby food for adults. As you spoon up some sustenance, you can watch big people working on their late-night relationship issues.