The Bite

Armas's efforts pale, however, compared with the cigarette-banning lengths taken at the newest Stuart Anderson's Black Angus (9045 Forsstrom Street, Lone Tree), the first completely smoke-free Black Angus in the state. Don't ask for that beef charred!

Cook books: The Fourth Story (2955 East First Avenue) is about to start another chapter. Chef Brian Sack disappeared last month (with an assist from the management), which means the restaurant atop the Tattered Cover is about to get its seventh chef in as many years.

Original chef Terri Rippeto, who opened the Fourth Story's kitchen to raves in March 1995, left after three months to open Potager (1109 Ogden Street); her replacement didn't work out, and his replacement, Jess Roybal, was tragically killed by lightning. Roybal was followed by noteworthy chefs David Steinmann and Chris Cina, who left with excused absences (Steinmann wanted to work with his family; Cina wanted to work in Switzerland).

General Manager Michael Smith is currently interviewing for Sack's replacement. But in the meantime, he isn't worried: Two longtime employees, Kevin Savoy and Michelle Leslie Brown, have been co-managing the kitchen and doing just fine.

"We've kept things as normal as possible, gone on with our events -- that was very important," Smith says. "We got through a week, and then we made some decisions. Kevin and Michelle were really excited about doing the events, and we've been working together to create menus that go with the wine, dinners and whatnot. They're really running the kitchen in the absence of an executive chef."

One of the events coming up features Deborah Madison, author of Local Flavors, a book on farmers' markets -- and the dishes you can make from ingredients picked up there. At a dinner on Thursday, June 27 ($60 per person), Madison will show slides, sign books -- and, along with the rest of the guests, enjoy the bounty coming out of the Fourth Story kitchen. The roster that evening will feature "as much local produce as possible," Smith says, and probably take advantage of the nearby farmers' market in Cherry Creek.

Some of that fresh produce is already showing up on the Fourth Story's menu, to make it lighter for the summer. That way, "when the new chef comes, we'll let him/her come in and get comfortable," Smith says. "We won't be at that point where we need a new menu today; we need a new menu yesterday. Instead, it will make a good transition for our new chef, and we can do what we think is important -- be seasonable and be fresh." The decision on that new chef could be coming any day, Smith adds.

Rialto Cafe (934 16th Street) now has a new executive chef in residence: Theo Roe (not Rock, as reported here last week). He's cooking off an updated menu that includes specialty drinks (see Drink of the Week, page 70).

Marczyk Fine Foods (770 East 17th Avenue) celebrates the longest day of the year and the start of the summer season with a party and picnic ($5 if you eat) from 5 to 8 p.m. on Friday, June 21. Owner Pete Marczyk will be grilling Niman Ranch burgers and summer vegetables; the Marczyk staff will be scooping ice cream for dessert; and the bluegrass band High Street will be playing for free in the parking lot. Denver may not be burning, but this place is hot!

And Marczyk's will add more fuel to the fire from 4 to 6 p.m. June 24 and 25, when its series of "Rush Hour Tastings" features close to a dozen hot sauces that the market stocks.

One more smokin' deal: The Gold Hill Inn marks its fortieth birthday this weekend with a Friday-night dance party, a Saturday-night dinner featuring roast suckling pig as an entree and more bluegrass music by Open Road, and a Sunday clambake with still more bluegrass music by Tall Trees Grove. For details, see www.goldhillinn.com -- and then head for the hills.