Ursa Major

Of the two schnitzels available, we asked for the traditional Wiener schnitzel, a thin slice of veal, floured, egged, breaded and fried, served with German fried potatoes and a wedge of lemon. There's no way of evaluating food this nostalgia-laden: It was purely and simply as I'd remembered Wiener schnitzel from my teenage visits to Austria with my mother, and I loved it.

For dessert we shared -- what else? -- apple strudel and a slice of sachertorte. The sachertorte is the most traditional of Viennese desserts: Pastry chefs have battled over recipes; there have been lawsuits over the authenticity of various versions. The cake on Bill's plate was made at the Old Heidelberg Bakery in Colorado Springs, according to Annalies. There was raspberry rather than apricot jam between the chocolate layers, and a thin layer of marzipan underlay the glossy chocolate glaze -- anathema to the orthodox perhaps, but far too delicious to quibble over.

Anna Newell

Bear country: Owners Hans and Annalies Wyppler honor tradition at the Black Bear Inn.

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The Black Bear Inn

42 E. Main St.
Lyons, CO 80540

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Northern Colorado

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Details

303-823-6812, www.blackbearinn.com
Hours: 11 a.m. - 2 p.m., 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Friday
5 - 10 p.m. Saturday
noon to 3 p.m., 5 to 8 p.m. Sunday

42 East Main Street, Lyons

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• Eating Out
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The apple strudel, on the other hand, was entirely authentic. The dough for this dessert is supposed to be hand-pulled over a table until it's so thin you can read a newspaper through it. It's then brushed with melted butter, scattered with buttered breadcrumbs (I think the Black Bear substitutes ground almonds), filled with apple slices and a scattering of raisins, rolled up, curved into a C-shape and baked. This goes on daily at the Black Bear Inn, and the resulting strudel is served with a generous dollop of rich whipped cream.

I think Pater would approve.