Bit by Bit

Triana needs to try harder.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Oct 17 2002

...continued from page 2

Anna Newell

Tapas the town: Triana can look better than it tastes.

Location Info

Map

Triana

1039 Pearl St
Boulder, CO 80302-5110

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Boulder

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Details

1039 Pearl Street, Boulder
303-449-1022
Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday
5-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday
5-9 p.m. Sunday
Happy hour (with reduced-price tapas and drink specials) 4-6 p.m. every day

Closed location

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Earth, fire, water and sky. Stone and iron. Brick and wood. If you've got the eye for it, Triana's elements meld elegantly. In moments and in glances, the juxtaposition is rather striking. It comes together in the strangest of ways. And the same thing can happen here on the plate. Sure, there are rough edges, junctures at which tastes collide like a car wreck, grating combinations too fussed over to seem natural or whole. But the kitchen's coming along. It has talent, skill and a sense of where things are headed. Now, all that's needed is confidence that the food has something to say -- and enough trust to get out of the way.

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