Frite Dreams

The dining room does not. Adde Brewster's subterranean location, with its windows opening onto a gray cement retaining wall, might have been enough to kill any other restaurant. But somehow -- it could be some weird Swedish feng shui that's beyond me to understand -- the space works. The bar is small, intimate and now allows smoking again (see Bite Me, page 72). "How can you have a bar without smoking?" Bjorklund asks. "Classic rock and roll, a classic bar, classic drinks and a good smoke -- they all go together. How can you have one without the others?

The tables are simply dressed, with white plates, plain silver and single candles in tall, slim holders. The art on the walls is abstract and patently uninteresting, and the room itself has a funny shape with walls meeting at odd angles. Things can get pretty crowded during busy seatings, with a half-dozen friendly, professional and well-informed servers twisting their way through the close-set chairs, and it can be loud when the place fills up -- usually with hordes of graying Cherry Creek yuppies awkwardly flailing their way through doomed first dates, and with so much botulism toxin in evidence that had this been twenty years ago, before the advent of beauty-by-injection, it would have been cause for the health department to kick in the doors and quarantine everything in a thousand-foot radius. But still, it works.

Mark Manger

A storied career: Bistro Adde Brewster owner Adde Bjorklund.

Location Info

Map

Bistro Adde Brewster

250 Steele St.
Denver, CO 80206

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: Central Denver

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Details

250 Steele Street
303-388-1900
Hours: Lunch 1:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday
Dinner 5-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday

Gravlax: $8.75
Croûte forestière: $7.25
Beef tenderloin with marrow bordelaise: $24
Wiener schnitzel: $14
Ham and brie sandwich with pommes frites: $9

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More About

• Adde Brewster
• Paris (France)
• Adde Bjorklund
• Eating Out
• Meat

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This is one of the few Denver restaurants I've been in that actually feels like a restaurant. It's not an art gallery, not a fashion show, not some glammed-up retro-chic pit stop where the young and fabulous come to compare body piercings and scarf up overpriced California sushi. It's just a restaurant -- somewhere you go for a good meal and a nice glass of wine with your best girl (or fella). Over its dozen-plus years in the business, this restaurant has recognized that you have to find what works and then do it over and over and over again until every little thing is right, until all those little things add up to the big things, and the big things are no sweat.

I'm pretty sure Hans would agree.