A Beautiful Dine

And none of us could pass up Pham's special that night, because it had such potential for trouble: a fillet of sturgeon -- one of the ugliest, smelliest, greasiest, steel-headed fish any kitchen ever had the misfortune of working with -- stewed with carrots and leeks, swimming in a sunchoke-and-champagne foam. We laughed when the waitress promised that it was excellent. Even without my natural prejudice against anyone using foams or other such puffery on their plates, it sounded just terrible. No one could do something like that and do it well, we figured, let alone have it come out "light and fresh and just wonderful," which was how our waitress described it.

But, in fact, it was light and fresh and wonderful. Pham had juiced the carrots and leeks, sautéed them in butter, deglazed his pan and braised the vegetables in their own juices, cooked a fat potato round in the same liquid, then sealed everything, plus the fish, in a Cryovac bag and stewed the whole thing to order, finishing it with just a naked hint of truffle butter at the very end. It was masterful.

Mark Manger

Raw courage: Herry Fnu crafting sushi at Opal.

Location Info

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Opal Restaurant & Lounge

100 E. 9th Ave.
Denver, CO 80203

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: Central Denver

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Details

100 East Ninth Avenue
303-861-7999
Hours: Lunch, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday
Dinner, 5:30-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday
5:30-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday
5:30 p.m.-1 a.m. Sunday (sushi only)
Sushi nightly until 1 a.m.

Miso soup: $4
Sea Urchin Three Ways: $12
Duck-confit salad: $11 Chicken roulade: $17
Sturgeon special: $22
Kobe strip loin: $7/ounce
Kobe burger: $8
Sushi: $1-$12.50/selection

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More About

• Duy Pham
• Miki Hashimoto
• Rebecca Weitzman
• Fruits and Vegetables
• Foods

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We were tasting beauty. This was food that raised fusion cuisine to a level beyond all but its most brilliant exemplars. It was peerless, practiced beyond measure, and our dinner was not just the best meal I've had in a good, long time, but likely the best I'll have for a good, long time to come.