Genoa salami, slow-roasted prime rib, Cinghiale pancetta, Italian-import cherry peppers, capicola in both the hot and sweet varieties, lean pastrami sliced thin as paper -- these are the building blocks of Salvaggio's cuisine. A cold Italian sub came layered with salami, provolone, pepperoni and mellow, fat-intensive mortadella without a whisper of the bitter smokiness it can sometimes acquire. A simple ploughman's lunch of prosciutto (sliced a little thick for my tastes) and provolone arrived on a fresh, soft roll unadulterated by vegetables, while a good side of thick egg salad was studded with a microscopic onion brunoise and rough-chopped parsley.
Salvaggio's also puts out breakfast sandwiches with two eggs, cheese and thick-cut pancetta or prosciutto that are worth the demerits you'll get for being late to work. And should I ever end up on death row, the simple combination of fresh-milk mozzarella and greasy, garlic-infused roasted red bell peppers will be pretty high on my list of choices for a last meal.
Anna Newell
Deli dally: Jamie and Danny Pisarra offer a bite of the Big Apple at New York on 17th.
Location Info
Details
New York on 17th
837 East 17th Avenue
303-837-8887
Hours: 9 a.m.- 9 p.m. Monday-Saturday
9 a.m.-3 p.m. SundayHam-and-cheese calzone: $8.50
Reuben: $8.50
Beef brisket: $7.95
Park Avenue club: $9.50
Yankee Clipper: $10.50
Ellis Island: $9.95
Single dawg (hot dog) with ’kraut and chili: $5.70
Meatball parmigiana: $7.95
Salvaggio’s Italian Delicatessen
2609 Pearl Street, Boulder
303-938-1981
Hours: 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Friday
10 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturday
11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday
Pancetta, egg and cheese sandwich: $3.49
Italian sub: $6.50
Prosciutto and provolone on a roll: $5.50
Mozzarella and red bells: $5.25
Chicken-salad sub: $6.50
Prime rib on a roll: $5.50
Egg salad: $4.99/lb
Cinghiale Pancetta: $11.99/lb
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The bread that Salvaggio's bakes is the spongy sort -- inoffensive and as utilitarian as a framing stud. If you're a crusty-bread person or looking for artisanal loaves, you'll likely find it a little dull and pedestrian, but for those of us who understand that bread here serves only as a delivery vehicle for lunch meat, the rolls do their jobs -- ensuring that we won't walk out the door with a fistful of cold cuts, eating out of our hands like savages.
Salvaggio's doesn't list an egg-and-olive sandwich on the board, which I found disappointing. The lettuce used to gussy up the cold subs had been left too long in the cold table and too close to the other vegetables, so it tasted bitter, as if it had been slow dancing with a bell pepper. And the chicken salad was made -- of course -- with celery, the devil's green. But these small failings aside, the Salvaggio's machine performed its duty admirably, with minimum fuss, zero ostentation and admirable simplicity.
If you're in Boulder and in the mood for a sandwich, it's worth your time. But know what you're after before you step up to the counter. At the height of the lunch rush, they're not kidding about having no time for umm's.
