Food & Drink

So many indignities have been heaped on the humble potato. So many wrongs have been done in its name. So many cooks have been content to just dunk fistfuls of frozen potato pieces in hot oil and shovel the resulting pasty, greasy fries out to diners who don't expect much more. But not Joe Sinopoli. First at Adde Brewster and now at Bistro 250 (in Adde's old location), Sinopoli has elevated the maligned tuber, putting out plate after plate of perfect pommes frites -- the Apollonian ideal of a potato's existence. Blanched first in hot oil, left to sit, then dunked again until golden brown, this process results in crisp, nutty, even slightly sweet fries -- thin as shoestrings and lightly touched with salt -- that will forever ruin you for the limp, oily and pallid fare of the local drive-thru.