A Room of One's Own

I saw the kitchen -- a box of bright steel and white light -- in bits and flashes. The doors would open for a busboy, and there was Yontz, arms folded, imperious, watching his crew. The doors would open for a waiter, and there was Yontz, sauté pan in each hand, pointing to one with the other. I saw beautiful plates passing by my table, and I was helped through the menu and well-balanced wine list by a service staff that was efficient and enthusiastic -- especially in their balletic swooping in to replace every piece of silver I touched.

But even with everything else working so well, Yontz's food is what will carry Vega through.

Anna Newell

He's The Man: Sean Yontz comes out of the kitchen at Vega.

Location Info

Map

Vega

410 E. 7th Ave.
Denver, CO 80203

Category: Parks/Outdoors

Region: Central Denver

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Details

410 East Seventh Avenue
303-832-6614
Hou rs: 5:30-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday
5:30-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Salmon ceviche: $9
Oxtail tamal: $10
Albondigas ravioli: $9
Duck confit: $24
Angus ribeye: $26
Poached salmon: $22

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More About

• Sean Yontz
• Marco Colantonio
• Kevin Taylor
• Eating Out
• Foods

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When I asked Yontz how he's handling the stress and the pressure of it all, he graciously thanked the guys who'd gone before him into the weird, brutish, awesome world of being The Man. "I'm just doing what all these guys taught me," he said. "What I learned from them. It's a tough time right now in Denver, and these last four months have been the hardest thing I've ever had to do, but I was with Kevin for ten years, so believe me -- I know how to get through tough times."

And then he laughed. "Really, I just want it to be a year. I want to be open a year, get through all the bullshit and get on with the routine."