You're Darn Teuton

Cafe Berlin is the schnitzel!

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Jun 5 2003

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Mark Manger

Wurst-case scenario: Cafe Berlin serves up hearty, heavy fare.

Location Info

Map

Cafe Berlin

1600 Champa St.
Denver, CO 80202

Category: Restaurant > German

Region: Downtown Denver

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Details

2005 East 17th Avenue
303-377-5896
Hou rs: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Monday-Friday
4-9:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday

W�rstteller: $8.95
K�seplatte: $7.95
Spatzle: $6.95
Kartoffelpuffer: $4
Gurkensalat: $3.50
Sauerbraten: $16.95
Paprikaschnitzel: $16.95

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But at Cafe Berlin, there are no small slices of anything; the smallest portion served here is as large as the biggest bit of culinary deco plated up at the high-end houses around town. My small slice of lemon cake weighed about a pound and a half in its Styrofoam container. It was three stories high, as wide as the back of my hand, and -- while delicious -- would have been enough lemon cake to satisfy me for days.

I had the feeling that had we stayed a second longer, even more courses would have appeared -- more pickles, more brats, another round of salads brought down out of the clear blue sky. As we stumbled out onto 17th Avenue at about eight, too stuffed to breathe, we were carrying as much out of the place in to-go boxes as we'd had on our plates. And now the restaurant was full: a dozen diners, regulars all, and every one of them tucking in for the long haul.

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