Sandwiched between the ultra-hip Lola and the perennially chi-chi Sushi Den, the Pearl Street Grill is an old-school oasis for easygoing drinkers. So why would I go in there and order a Pink Lipstick? Because in addition to offering a wide selection of tap beers, stiff margs and classic cocktails, the Pearl Street Grill also does a brisk business in frou-frou martinis. "Our clientele likes strong drinks," my bartender explains. And what's not to like? Made with Stoli Orange and a splash of Chambord, the Pink Lipstick is indeed a stiffy, but its' also a bargain at $5.50. And the neighborly atmosphere is free. At the twenty-year-old Pearl, you don't need gobs of makeup or designer duds to fit in -- on a warm Monday evening, my fellow drinkers included two society dames sipping Chardonnay, a pair of overall-wearing construction workers draining Coors Original bottles, dread-heads drinking microbrews and forty-something yuppies snacking after a round of golf. Why go swank, when sincere is right next door?