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Hum Enchanted Evening

Dinner at Mel's runs like a well-oiled machine.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Oct 9 2003

Leaving, I can imagine the scene in the back. The kitchen's in the throes of the early rush where everything is a riot of knives, pans and fire. Orders are starting to stack up. Supplies are beginning to run low. Servers are getting double-seated. The barman is shouting for appetizers. All of the guys on the line are dropping into a siege mentality, wondering only when the worst of it will be over. But this is just another night, and Mel's machine is running smoothly. You'd never know anything was anything from the floor.

I miss it, sure. I think I always will. On nights like this -- when the air is cold, when there's a full house and hours yet to go, when everything is working exactly the way it's supposed to -- of course I miss it. I miss the perfect calm before the start of service, when everything is where it should be and all is right with the world. I even miss when everything starts to go wrong. I miss the adrenaline, the madness, the pressure.

Mark Manger

Pouring on the charm: The bar at Mel's Restaurant and Bar is just one of its many amenities.

Location Info

Map

Mel's Bar and Grill

5970 S. Holly Street
Englewood, CO 80111

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Southeast Denver Suburbs

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Details

235 Fillmore Street
303-333-3979
Hour s: Monday-Saturday 11 a.m. - 10 p.m.
Sunday 5:30 - 10 p.m.

Shrimp and grits: $8
Asparagus salad: $5< br>Agnolotti: $7
Mussels La Cagouille: $9
Foie gras: $12
Pear salad: $7
Strozzapreti: $15
Pork tenderloin: $19
Beef tenderloin: $27
Grilled ono: $23
Dessert: $6

Closed location

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But walking out feels kind of nice, too. It's been a few years, and I'm starting to get used to walking away. When a restaurant is as strong as Mel's, I can turn my back with no regrets and leave happy, content with being just Mister-Miller-party-of-four.

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