The Sporting Life

Only Brewery Bar III isn't in Chihuahua or Puebla: It's in Lone Tree. And the most Mexican thing here are the busboys out smoking hand-rolleds by the back door. If Brew the First and Brew II wound up fitting perfectly in their neighborhoods, maybe Brew III will someday, too. And that's the problem. My concern isn't with its lineage, but its incubator. Surrounded by Bennigan's, Schlotzky's Deli, Black Angus franchises, super-mega grocery marts and closet manufacturers, Brew III is doing nothing worse than trying to fit in with its neighbors.

Stepping outside around sunset, after another uninspiring meal, another bath in the blue glow of hundred-channel satellite TV, another afternoon spent among the new pioneers, I can see the future. Someday, after the buildout and the in-fill is done, Brew III will be indistinguishable from everything else in the landscape. It'll be one of those places you go to without thinking about it, and leave without remembering. I can see it in the stumpy, transplanted shade trees fighting to put down roots in hostile soil, in the frames of new tract housing spreading like an infection across the denuded hills. I can hear it in the sound of a four-man bar band singing a cappella Richard Marx oldies at the bar across the way, their caterwauling carried on thin, dusty breezes across acres of sticky blacktop parking lots just waiting for the next prefab home store to go up, the next T.G.I. Friday's, the next Bed, Bath & Beyond.

Anna Newell

Neighborhood watch: Brewery Bar III brings fifty years of history to a spankin'-new part of town.

Location Info

Map

Brewery Bar II

150 Kalamath St.
Denver, CO 80223

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Southwest Denver

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Details

Brewery Bar II
150 Kalamath Street
303-893-0971
Hour s: 11 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday
Closed Sunday

Brewery Bar III
9051 East Maximus Drive, Lone Tree
303-708-9333
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday
11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday
10 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday

Chicken wings: $6.95
Chips and salsa: $1.50
Beef burrito: $2.50-$4.50
Chile rellenos: $4.75-$5.50
Enchiladas: $2.75-$3

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• Wayne Newton
• Tivoli
• Rio Grande
• Eating Out
• Food and Cooking

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In this world, on this new frontier, I think Brewery Bar III will do just fine. But if you need me, I'll be across town, on the other side of the tracks, having a Cornito.