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True, the guy knows his stuff. A few years back, Masson -- then a Freudian psychoanalyst and director of the Freud archives at the Library of Congress -- made a big splash by essentially kicking ol' Siggy in the nuts with the publication of his first book, The Assault on Truth: Freud's Suppression of the Seduction Theory. After apparently becoming fed up with the emotional world of humans, he went on to write several very popular books about the emotional world of animals.

It's hard to argue with Masson, because all he's saying is that we should be nicer to animals and not eat them, wear them, or take away their eggs and milk. But it takes him 200-plus pages to say that, when the job really could have been done in something closer to brochure length. If you already know where your food comes from and have made peace with the fact that every time you eat, something dies, then save your money. And if you haven't, I highly doubt the whole world is gonna suddenly up and go vegetarian over the shocking discovery that pigs can sing.

No, I think we'll listen to the song, then make bacon. As Masson will be doing November 13 at the Tattered Cover in Cherry Creek, where he'll speak and sign books. In the meantime, if you want a copy, you're welcome to mine.

Not in Denver

Leftovers: I told you this was going to happen. After enjoying some fabulous meals in the otherwise empty Maruti Narayan's in August 2002, I expressed my absolute disbelief at the "legion of timid, pasty suburbanites lining up in front of the Subway counter [while] not far away, Carrabba's and the Outback Steakhouse were jumping [and] people were stacked up on benches in the 90-degree heat waiting for the dubious privilege of being seated at a fucking Olive Garden." I told you in no uncertain terms that if you didn't put down the riblets, step away from the bloomin' onion and give at least a portion of your business to the independent restaurants in this struggling area of Aurora, they were going to close.

And now Maruti Narayan's has. It went dark last month, taking with it the best saag paneer this side of the Himalayas. Anyone reading this while sitting in a T.G.I. Friday's or having lunch at Bennigan's or shoving your face full of Fazoli's breadsticks -- I blame you.

The opening of Table 6 -- the new spot in the old Beehive space at 609 Corona Street -- has hit a snag. The new proprietors are Bryan Moscatello, Mike Huff and Chris Farnum, all from Adega, and this past Monday, their request for an upgraded hotel-and-restaurant liquor license -- the kind that lets you serve the hard stuff -- was denied after the ownership group failed to show due cause for an upgraded license to be granted in that neighborhood. (The Beehive had served only wine and beer.) The guys were just getting ready to christen Table 6, with the staff set to come in and test out the kitchen, when the denial was handed down by the city.

Thing is, the Adega group isn't really interested in serving anything other than wine and beer at Table 6. But a hotel-and-restaurant liquor license is necessary at that address in order to keep all three of the trio's restaurants -- Adega, Table 6 and a restaurant scheduled to go into the new Cherry Creek Marriott hotel -- under the umbrella of a single ownership group rather than splitting them into individual companies. (While one company can hold a hundred tavern licenses, for example, it cannot hold 99 tavern licenses and one hotel-and-restaurant license.) "We've already filed appeals," says Farnum. And if necessary, he adds, the owners are willing to sign a letter to the Table 6 neighborhood, promising never to serve a drop of hard liquor on the premises.

License snafu aside, "things are going ahead as planned," Farnum says. And while that plan probably didn't include sending the full Table 6 staff home Monday night after the partners were notified of the license denial, they're still scheduling VIP and staff dinners starting next Monday, with a public opening on (or at least close to) the following Thursday. The theme will be American bistro (thanks, Mr. Tower!) chic, featuring lots of hardwood, copper, exposed brick and an open kitchen (invented by Tower, perfected by Jams), with straight-up bistro grub to match. As at Adega, Moscatello will be overseeing the Table 6 kitchen, the partners will be on the floor, and veteran staff will be rounding out the kitchen. Unlike at Adega, the menu at Table 6 will top out at $22.

That's with drinks not included, of course.

And James Mazzio's ChefJam Supper Club has transmogrified into The Restaurant at ChefJam. While high-end catering is still available, the place will be transformed into a fine-dining destination with reservation-only dinners every Thursday, Friday and Saturday night. Mazzio also promises guest-chef appearances, special tastings, theme nights and, as always, top-shelf à la carte offerings from an ever-changing menu.

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