Total Recall

A meal to remember at Brasserie Rouge.

While so much was good, there were a few disappointments. The spiced butternut squash ravioli looked like rubbery, floppy jellyfish and tasted like a big pile of Christmas, with too much nutmeg and sage and not enough life to lift them out of their heavy brown-butter-and-bacon sauce. And the desserts -- all of them -- were by far the weakest part of the meal.

But what I'll remember about our dinner is the smoke and the noise and the energy of a crowded, well-lit spot. I'll remember that the good dishes provided an excuse for lingering, for one more conversation, one more strong drink, one more laugh. I'll remember that Brasserie Rouge not only seemed to get most of the food right without even trying, but also provided all the other necessaries that facilitate everything besides the eating.

The inside story: Brasserie Rouge looks more 
authentic than an authentic French bistro.
Sean O'Keefe
The inside story: Brasserie Rouge looks more authentic than an authentic French bistro.

Location Info

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Brasserie Rouge

1801 Wynkoop St.
Denver, CO 80202

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: Downtown Denver

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Details

1801 Wynkoop Street, 303-991-2242. Hours: 5-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday

Steak tartare: $9
Pommes frites: $3
Smoked salmon: $10
Charcuterie plate: $12
Goat-cheese salad: $9
Squash ravioli: $13
Duck breast and confit leg: $17
Croque monsieur: $9
Bouillabaisse: $21
Crème brûlée: $6
Profiteroles: $6

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What matters most about a great meal is what we take with us after the bill is paid, all the little things we'll never forget. What we pay for isn't food, but the memory of food -- and sometimes it's only by checking what we stocked away in the larder that we truly realize its value.

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