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Bite Me

The More Things Change

Aixhas been serving brunch for a few months now, with a new menu every week and drink specials for those of you who need a classy excuse for drinking before noon on a Sunday. That makes up for the fact that the 35th Avenue Grille at the Park Hill Golf Club has stopped serving brunch. It still does lunch seven days a week, but I guess the carved meats, eggs Benny and omelette stations just weren't doing it. And Pesce Frescois dinner-only these days.

The Holly Inn is closed and will be reopening after the holidays as La Fontana -- but, yeah, the famous, trademarked, overstuffed burrito known by the faithful as the Tacorito will be back on the menu. Pho Van, which replaced Richard Lee's Noodle House, has already been renamed Noodle Souper. Peppers has new owners (Nick and Angela Giatis), as does the venerable Chez Walter, where Robert Sansone -- a Johnson &Wales grad and former chef at the Brown Palace's Ship Tavern -- has taken on chef/owner responsibilities. He promises that the place will continue to showcase the best of Continental dining, and an overhauled menu will debut after the holidays.

In Littleton, El Ranchito, Iris Cafeand Meglio's are no more. The latter has become another link in the Castle Rock-based Nicolo's chain of Chicago-style pizza joints, and that's a good thing, because Denver's been very short on deep-dish translations. Speaking of foreign food, Denver also recently lost Phoenicia (Middle Eastern), Jorge's Hamlet (Mexican) and Saigon Vietnamese (Vietnamese, obviously).

Finally, Henderson's Donuts -- the Lakewood spot that tried to make a go of being a full-menu restaurant with sandwiches and dinner entrees, along with crullers and jelly-filleds -- couldn't quite cut it in the land of Krispy Kreme. The bakery's gone dark, and the phone has been disconnected. If any development in this world of chain restaurants and corporate expansion should be cause for a moment of somber reflection, it's the closing of another doughnut shop. So can we have a moment of silence, please?

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