Bye-Bye, Brazil

Sean O'Keefe

One mall does it all: Get a $16.95 taste of South America at Tucanos Brazilian Grill.

Details

Colorado Mills, 14500 West Colfax Avenue, Lakewood, 303-590-1616. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday

Onion Tropical: $4.25
Nachos: $5.25
Poppers: $5.50
Churrasco $10.25 (lunch), $16.95 (dinner)

Closed Location

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More About

• Lakewood
• Steve Oldham
• Rochester
• Eating Out
• Foods

Chain restaurants -- especially those that are part of small, tightly controlled chains -- don't have to be bad, but they often are, just because they can be. Because nothing more than convenience, big portions and a bit of safe, sterile, escapist fun is required to put butts in the seats and keep the cash register ringing. With its appetizers, its desserts, its salad bar -- with everything but the churrasco -- Tucanos had the chance to rise above its location, above the expectation of getting exactly $16.95 worth of Rio de Janeiro in Lakewood, Colorado. But it never took that chance. In the end, it did only as much as the neighborhood demanded.