The Waiting Game

Sean O'Keefe

A ringside seat: Larimer Square isn't Paris, but it works for Bistro Vendome.

Location Info

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Bistro Vendome

1420 Larimer St.
Denver, CO 80202

Category: Restaurant > Brunch

Region: Downtown Denver

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Details

1424 Larimer Street, 303-825-3232. Hours: 5-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; brunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Friday-Sunday. Closed Mondays

Mussels: $9
Steak tartare: $11
Mashed potatoes: $5
Chilled asparagus: $6
Trout amandine: $17
Duck breast: $19
Rabbit blanquette: $17
Steak frites, all varieties: $19

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More About

• Eric Roeder
• Scott Tallman
• Gray Kunz
• Eating Out
• Fruits and Vegetables

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Finally, I have the dinner that I knew Vendome was capable of: a simple but beautiful spread of French classics, handled with care by a skilled kitchen, served by excellent staffers with a depth of knowledge and a command of dining-room French that runs so counter to the dreadlocks, the tattoos and the facial hair that I can't help but love the juxtaposition. It's taken a long time -- a lot more than three months -- but today Bistro Vendome is the restaurant I had always hoped it would become. Now Burger King doesn't have anything on Roeder.