The dish is going to change, Charlie tells me when he returns, tapping a pack of Nat Shermans, bringing another round. The kitchen's going to lose the fennel and add a ratatouille. More smart tinkering: The fennel is nice as a flavor rubbed off against the chicken, but overpowering when placed against the couscous. And Mum's Zinfandel beef stew -- a rich mess of tender beef and stew veggies in a soft gravy that I tried on one of those sneaky visits -- is being pulled entirely. Charlie loves the dish, likes the way it plays against the rest of the entrees and lends a homey, boyish touch to the menu, but it isn't selling. It'll be replaced with pork loin, marinated for a day, roasted, then cut and grilled to order. "It's good," he says, then backtracks. "It's going to be really good."
Brix's wine list is already good -- no bottle more than thirty bucks, and every label carefully chosen with both Charlie's grape smarts and his father's to draw on. This isn't cheap wine; it's good wine that happens to be inexpensive. The white-trash beer special, on the other hand, is just plain cheap: a buck seventy-five for PBR in the can. Cheap and just a little bit sleazy, the kind of deal that ought to come with its own brown paper bag (which it does) and a mesh-back Peterbilt hat (which it doesn't -- not yet). Charlie wants to add a white-trash dinner special, too -- a couple dollars for Ritz crackers and Cheez Whiz with chunks of pepperoni, something like that. "I've done so much fine dining that I just want something different. Something fun, right?" he says, and laughs.
Mark Manger
All in the family: Charlie Master (center) has created a
fun, casual atmosphere for customers and staff alike
at Brix.
Location Info
Details
3000 East Third Avenue,
303-333-3355. Hours: 4-10 p.m.
Monday-Saturday
Baked goat cheese: $7
Garlic
hummus: $3
House chips:
$3
Shepherd’s pie:
$14
Mum’s Zinfandel beef
stew: $14
Moroccan chicken:
$12
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"A lot of this," he says, "is also showing my dad that I could do this. Open my own restaurant. Make it on my own." Mel is still a major investor in Brix but that, like the menu, is changing. Charlie and his partner hope to soon buy out Dad's share. And that cutting of the apron strings will make Brix complete. Because right now, the crew -- front of the house and back, everyone on the floor, even Charlie -- give off the vibe of a very talented garage band doing it for the love of the music but still bankrolled by the lead singer's rich father. In some ways, that makes things easy. In some ways, much tougher. It makes Brix's casual rebellion ring oh-so-slightly false, since that which Charlie is working against (his history in fine dining, his history as a Master) still pays the bills and co-signs the checks.
But in a few weeks, the Boy will be all grown up. Charlie says he's thankful for all his parents have done, but it's time. He smiles, knocks back the last of another beer. He says he can't wait.
