In the Beginning...

Tony Gallagher

Rise and shine (and stand in line): Kitty Hunt serves up breakfast at the Original Pancake House.

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The Original Pancake House

8000 E. Belleview Ave.
Englewood, CO 80111

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Southeast Denver Suburbs

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For an exec, breakfast is a sop to the cruel economics and razor-thin profit margins of dinner. For a cook, breakfast is what you do when you can't do anything else. At chain restaurants and real restaurants alike, breakfast is the least creative, most maligned, most artless sort of meal -- punishment for cooks and diners alike. That's the rule, but the Original Pancake House is the exception. It succeeds marvelously where it has every reason to fail and every excuse for doing so. Somewhere in this chain's fifty-year history, the owners figured out that breakfast in America can be different, and I'm glad they shared that lesson with us.

If for no other reason than it means I never have to set foot in IHOP again.