Salt Treaty

Heaven Dragon's owner dreamed of serving the president. But his food is a high-sodium nightmare.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Oct 14 2004

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Rogues' gallery: Dick Cheney welcomes you to Heaven Dragon.

Location Info

Map

Heaven Dragon Chinese Restaurant

3730 E. 120th Ave.
Denver, CO 80233

Category: Restaurant > Chinese

Region: North Denver

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Details

3730 East 120th Avenue, Thornton, 303- 457-9977. Hours: 11 a.m.- 9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday; 11:30 a.m.- 9:30 p.m. Sunday

Pu-pu platter: $4.95 (for two)
Wonton soup: $1
Egg drop soup: $1
Sizzling rice chicken: $7.95
Peking duck: $28
Shrimp in lobster sauce: $8.95
Fried rice: $6.95
Sesame chicken: $8.75

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A restaurant owner's politics, no matter how overt, don't matter a damn once the plates hit the table. I don't care if the guy cooking my food is a Democrat, a Republican or a member of the Bull Moose Party. The food is all that counts. I wanted to know what it was about Heaven Dragon that kept the White House coming back for more. I had hoped for a great find -- a suburban gem with perfect traditional fare, or just a novel take on the cuisine of the Mysterious East.

But if this is what Dubya and Cheney eat, it's no wonder our vice president is followed everywhere by a team of crack cardiologists with nitro shots in their speed-draw holsters. Instead of fortune cookies, Heaven Dragon should give away arterial stents and pacemakers at the end of every meal. And if chasing after the president's dining dollars taught me anything about politics, it's this: Don't take any restaurant advice from Wayne Allard.

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