The Shlock of the New

Cafe Bisque did a few things right. In addition to the French toast, the kitchen made a good, chive-spiked Maytag and baby red potato salad worthy of the New American label. There was also a duck confit sandwich with cherry compote, caramelized onions and goat cheese served on bread like a giant English muffin that's not at all New American and not even made with anything approximating duck confit but still fantastic. On my tour through the menu, this was the one instance where the kitchen took an original idea and managed to balance sweet and sour and bitter and salty for a unified harmony of flavors. And that's no small thing. I'd go back just for another crack at this sandwich.

The service was excellent, too -- not wise, not smothering, not snooty, but like a good coffeehouse crew transplanted into a comfortably casual breakfast and lunch place, doing its level best to make sure everyone was taken care of. When the hostess got crushed by the lunch rush, the cooks even left the inviting open kitchen to seat tables and take orders. Which was nice, but they needed to get back in the kitchen for some target practice. As it is, they hit the mark about as often as a blind man playing darts. And that's no way to win a war.

Sean O'Keefe

Bored in the USA: Cafe Bisque makes breakfast, but doesn't break new ground.

Location Info

Map

Bisque

224 Union Blvd.
Lakewood, CO 80228

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: West Denver Suburbs

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Details

224 Union Boulevard, Lakewood, 303- 985-4151. Hours: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday- Saturday; closed Sunday

Bisque Benedict: $11
Stuffed French toast: $8.50
Kobe burger: $13
Maine club: $11
Squash bisque: $8.50
Ham and cheese sandwich: $9.50

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Not even against the French.