A Hell of a Place

Devil's Food Bakery is a heavenly coffee shop -- and more.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Nov 18 2004

...continued from page 2

Mark Manger

Display's the thing: Devil's Food Bakery could lead a saint to sin.

Location Info

Map

Devil's Food Bakery and Cookery

1024 S. Gaylord St.
Denver, CO 80209

Category: Restaurant > Bakery

Region: South Denver

6 user reviews	Write A Review
Save to foursquare	0

Details

1024 South Gaylord Street, 303-733- 7448. Hours: 6 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday- Friday, 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday, 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday

Stuffed French toast: $8
French onion soup: $3/$5
Chicken paillard: $12< br>Steak frites: $14
Scallops: $8/$16

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Shorey is the devil's own when it comes to cooking -- a guy who's still in the process of making that rare jump from the science of pastry to the gut-level instincts of line cooking. But once he gets it, once he hits his stride on the hot side, he'll be truly dangerous, a double threat in a business where there aren't many who can work one side of the kitchen consistently well, let alone both. And the signs are good that he will make it, because aside from the truly awful scallops, there was no mistake at Devil's Food so egregious that I actually stopped eating anything that was put in front of me. More important, there was nothing that will keep me from going back again. And again. After a long search, I've found my spot -- my Cicely, my Providence, my Friendscoffeehouse. While not everything is perfect, it's close.

And in the real world -- off the sound stage and working without a script -- close to perfect is good enough for me.

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