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Bait and Switch

With Go Fish Grille, Larry Herz may have a keeper.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Dec 16 2004

...continued from page 2

Sean O'Keefe

Scaling back: Go Fish Grille is more popular than Indigo, but the food is less impressive.

Location Info

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Go Fish Grille

250 Josephine St.
Denver, CO 80206

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: Central Denver

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Details

250 Josephine Street, 303-996-9966. Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday, 5-10 p.m. Saturday

Killer shrimp: $8.95
Spring rolls: $9.95
Crab and shrimp cakes: $9.95< br>Potato chips: $5.95
Ahi sashimi: $10.95
Shellfish risotto: $16.95
Roast chicken: $14.95
Pork chops: $16.95
Mahi mahi: $17.95
Swordfish: $18.95
Arctic char: $18.95

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From the land side of the menu comes a half roast chicken bright with lemon and garlic and served with a simple piccata sauce that's very nice. The cinnamon-spiced pork chops are topped with a cinnamon-apple-buttery-chutney concoction that would taste great on pork chops that weren't brought well past mid-rare and into the territory of pork jerky. The grilled asparagus is fine, though, as is the coleslaw. The iceberg wedge and Caesar salads are both well made, served in chilled bowls and presented simply, as salads ought to be in a place like this. The bread, made daily by Forsythe, is excellent, and it's even better dipped in the oil and spicy balsamic vin that's brought by fast-moving runners who can clear and reset a turned table quicker than anyone in town. Rather than saving it for dessert, a diner might want to blow any spare folding money on something special off the well-chosen wine list -- fumé blanc by the glass, or maybe something bubbly.

And then raise a glass to Herz, if anyone can catch him as he moves between tables, babysitting his new place through its indisputable success. I'm not hooked, not yet, but as long as he keeps an eye on the kitchen and doesn't get blinded by the head count, he may have a keeper.

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