Eating Sadam

At Denver Woodlands, comfort food is cool -- even if the critic isn't.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Feb 3 2005

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James Glader

Take a dip: Chef Parimezaghan Rajan spices up veggie fare at Denver Woodlands.

Details

12200 East Cornell Avenue (in Regatta Plaza), Aurora, 303-745-6666. Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesday- Friday, noon-4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; Dinner, 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday

Iddly: $2.95
Samosa: $3.95
Poori bhaji: $6.95
Thayir sadam: $5.95
Saag paneer: $8.95
Masala dosa: $6.99
Butter dosa: $6.99
Set dosa: $7.99

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I left the thayir sadam for last. All through my meal, I'd no doubt committed innumerable breaches of good taste and decorum in the process of trying to dip at least one of everything into one of everything else, so I did nothing with the sadam beyond taking a bite. I tried to concentrate as I tasted. I tried to feel my way through the ingredients and how they were working together. I tried to think of it as a dessert, as a little something to settle the stomach and freshen the breath. As the yogurt dried out my mouth and the rice squished against my teeth, I tried to imagine it as a sorbetto course, as a refreshing beverage on a hot day. But I couldn't do it. The sadam was fine on its own, and I could even see developing a taste for it as I had for jackfruit and snails and crawdads, but the problem was, I'd already developed a taste for it. The wrong taste, but still.

Let the rest of the world laugh. I think meatloaf and ice cream go wonderfully together.

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