Buffalo Bills

Luciano's Pizza and Wings does Buffalo cuisine right, but that may not be enough.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Mar 10 2005

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No matter what's on top of the pies, they're all based on the rigorous replication of a regional style that may seem odd to those who don't understand that in one small, frozen corner of the world -- Buffalo, New York-- this is simply the way pizza is made. To those who don't understand, the pizzas taste like the up-from-frozen pies served in high school cafeterias all across the country, like Tombstone from the freezer. More than anything, they just taste wrong.

And, sadly, the fact that Ferreri's actually doing it right doesn't fill chairs. At dinner on a Sunday, the wife and I are alone in the pleasant dining room -- one half Pizzeria Uno chain-restaurant sterility, one half neighborhood rustic, and (excepting the sump-and-disinfectant smell coming from the bathrooms just past the TV) perfectly keyed to the crowds that Ferreri expected to swamp his paean to the Buffalo pizza-and-wing joints of his youth. The room is so clean and quiet that we feel more like the first customers than the only customers on a night six months after Luciano's grand opening.

Mark Manger

Winging it: Luciano's specializes in the cuisine of upstate New York.

Location Info

Map

Luciano's Pizza and Wings

1043 Broadway
Denver, CO 80203

Category: Closed

Region: Central Denver

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Details

1043 Broadway, 303-446-2424. Hours: 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-2:30 a.m. Friday-Saturday; 11 a.m.- 10:30 p.m. Sunday

10 wings: $6.95
50 wings: $22.95< br>14-inch pizza, cheese and pepperoni: $11.75
Old Italian white, large: $15.75

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Back in the kitchen, the hood fans are roaring. The oil is hot. There's dough in the proofing boxes, back stock in the lowboys, and a rainbow of ingredients in the island of cold tables that sit smack in the middle of all that space. It's all waiting for people to realize that Luciano's offers real Buffalo cuisine. But the awful truth may be that real isn't enough here, and that Buffalo cuisine is better left to the frozen latitudes where it was born.

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