Best Baby Backs

Come to Papa. This may look like just another strip-mall barbecue joint, but Big Papa's makes a sublime rack of baby-back ribs, all charred and crusty 'round the edges, smooth and fatty and tender inside. Making them even better are Papa's homemade sauces, four varieties from different regional traditions: Memphis, Kansas City, a mustard-spiked Carolina and a Deep South. Papa's also does good link sausage and chicken, brisket sandwiches on po'boy rolls rather than plain white Wonder Bread, and authentic hush puppies, but the baby backs are what will bring you back.