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"We're in a transition period now," he says. "Actually, we're constantly in a transition period. But I like being able to go out in the dining room and ask people, 'What do you feel like eating tonight?' I like how that feels. People have to understand that if they want the kitchen to make something special for them, they'll have to wait. We're not going to rush it just because you're in a hurry. If they want something fast, we have the prepared foods, we always have sandwiches. What we want are the foodies who want something really interesting to eat and who'll sit down and try us out."
And the foodies are coming. They're talking with the cooks, with the chef/managers, asking what's good. The guys who prepare their meals are bringing the plates right out to them, then checking back to see if everything's okay. The foodies are buying into Frisco's whole market-as-bistro concept.
Roberts watches over everything, frankly just as amazed as I am that the concept is working. He recognizes that so far, Frisco's has enjoyed a sort of charmed bubble, cooking for regulars, friends of the house and the captive audience of the upscale Belmar development, the owners' experiment underwritten by the slamming lunch business, the catering, the deli and market. But should word leak out about the little joint in Lakewood where they'll cook whatever your heart desires? "We're just getting to the point where we can stand on our own," Roberts responds. "I'm not sure what that means for the future yet."
7057 W. Alaska
Lakewood, CO 80226
Region: West Denver Suburbs
Stromboli: $4.99< br>Mac-n-cheese (normal): $6.99
Mac-n-cheese (five-cheese): $7.99
Steak hash: $7.99
Is he worried? Hell, yes. He's a smart guy, and he knows how easily something going so right can quickly go wrong. Too much business can be just as bad as no business, and a sudden rush can kill a place as surely as a sudden retreat. When you're working in a food-fantasy land like Frisco's, there's no telling how long the dream will last.