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Changing Course

How I learned to stop worrying and love seitan.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Jun 23 2005

Right around the corner from WaterCourse, there's a Quizno's franchise. So the next day I got myself a Ziploc plastic bag, ordered a sub (the chicken carbonara, in case you're curious, with no sauce, hold the vegetables), pulled the chicken off, put it in the baggie, and then -- like a coke mule walking through customs -- tried to act cool as I returned to WaterCourse, waited for a seat, then ordered the Sid again. I was a little worried that the smell of the chicken would drive the protein-starved crowds into a frenzy of George Romero-esque zombie madness, but that didn't happen. For a vegetarian kitchen, WaterCourse puts out some pretty good smells all by itself, so no one noticed when I opened the bag.

No one noticed when I started laying down the chicken. And no one noticed when I took a big bite and started laughing. The chicken had done the trick, wedding all the combative flavors of the sandwich. Adding to my enjoyment, I felt like I'd gotten away with something -- like bringing porn to church or sneaking a pork chop into a seder.

Mark Manger

The simple life: If you gotta go vegetarian, go to WaterCourse.

Location Info

Map

WaterCourse Foods

837 E. 17th Ave.
Denver, CO 80218

Category: Restaurant > Health

Region: Central Denver

28 user reviews	Write A Review
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Details

214 East 13th Avenue, 303-832-7313. Hours: 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday, 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday

BBQ tofu: $9.50
Tempeh tacos: $8.75
Tempeh burger: $8.75
Seitan Philly: $7.95
The Sid: $8.25< br>Penne pesto: $8.25
Amsterdam hash: $7.50
Pancakes: $4.95

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There aren't a lot of dishes at WaterCourse in need of such sneaky, underhanded improvement, but it did prove to me that there are just some things that demand a carnivore's touch.

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