Fry It, You'll Like It

And just try to get a real bread pudding, all crusty and crunchy with sugar crystals, at one of those steak places. Or brown sugar-spiked apple brown betty like Grandma used to make. No, there it's all crème brûlée and lychee sherbet and desserts from childhood reimagined for this modern age.

If I want modern, I know where to go. When I want prosciutto and foie gras, when the urge strikes for the fancy stuff, the expensive stuff, the good stuff I've been chasing since I was sixteen years old, I know where to go. But real comfort in the form of a cheap steak treated well or traditional pan-fried chicken or truck-stop bread pudding or fish without mango salsa is becoming increasingly difficult to find. Joints close, and cooks who understand how to do these things -- who've never done anything else -- retire or move to Indiana to sell used cars, leaving no one behind to take their place.

Mark Manger

No flash in the pan: Castle Cafe makes fried chicken right.

Location Info

Map

Castle Cafe

403 Wilcox St.
Castle Rock, CO 80104

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Southeast Denver Suburbs

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Details

403 Wilcox Street, Castle Rock, 303-814- 2233. Hours: 4:30-9 p.m. Monday- Thursday, 4:30-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday

Yuppie-i-o dip: $5.29
Chicken dinner: $11.99
Meatloaf: $12.79
Blackened trout: $13.79
Skirt steak: $14.29
Pot roast: $13.49
New York strip: $22.99

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More About

• Tom Walls
• Slow Food International
• Brad Brown
• Eating Out
• Meat

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So maybe we need people like the Slow Foodies and their ilk just to keep everyone honest and make sure that, twenty years from now, there'll still be someone around who knows how to pan-fry a chicken. In the meantime, when I'm in need of old-fashioned comfort, I'll be down at Castle Cafe, waiting as long as it takes to get chicken done right.