Mickey’s Top Sirloin

Good steak, great price. What's not to like?

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Oct 20 2005

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Mickey's Top Sirloin

6950 Broadway
Denver, CO 80221

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: North Denver

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303-426-5881

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When I stopped by the new, improved Mickey's Top Sirloin for lunch last week (a few months ago, it had moved from its decrepit, decades-old home across the parking lot to a shiny, family-friendly, cookie-cutter space with bright-green corrugated siding), the strangest thing about it was the pictures of the cows on the wall. Not that there's anything wrong with cows -- this is a blue-collar joint, after all, with a sideline rodeo theme going -- but between the name and the cattle photos, you'd think that Mickey's would offer nothing but deconstructed cattle. But you'd be wrong, because the lunch menu lists all of onesteak: the eponymous "Mickey's Top Sirloin," which rings the cash register at $7.95. The rest of the fare is solidly Italian and Mexican, with plenty of burritos, rice, beans, spaghetti and red sauce. I asked my very friendly server if there might possibly be more than a single steak for sale, and she said yes, that since the dinner menu was pretty much wall-to-wall cow, she could order me a chicken-fried steak, a mesquite-grilled something that I didn't catch the name of, a sirloin smothered in onions and mushrooms, or a New York strip. I decided on the strip, if for no other reason than it was the closest thing to the cut I'd ordered at my $300 dinner at Bob's Steak and Chop House (see review). At Mickey's, $10.95 brought me a good-sized chunk of choice-grade beef done to an ideal rare. The grill marks were even, the meat salty and bloody and tasting exactly how I remembered steak tasting when I was a kid. It came with a baked potato on the side mounded up with sour cream and a ball of butter, plus an iceberg salad, and all of that -- along with another steak dinner for a friend, a beer, a Coke and a tip -- came out costing fifteen bucks less than the $45 I'd paid for my Kansas City strip at Bob's. While the food here isn't the fanciest in the world, no one comes to Mickey's looking for fancy: They come to eat dinner, not to dine.

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