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Intelligent Design

The Coral Room is an exotic addition to Stapleton.

The coconut tempura prawns were fine when hot out of the fryer, but suffered terribly as they cooled and their jackets of sweet batter took on the consistency of crunchy taffy. Dipped in the attendant Szechuan peanut sauce, these big shrimp lollipops tasted like the most ill-conceived culinary combination possible: nuts and gum. But the coconut tempura banana on the dessert menu was fantastic. I could have eaten three.

Right now, Stapleton's Coral Room is a great idea, a sexy space balanced by room for kids, a high-tone dining experience in a neighborhood that offers no others. And despite the fact that its out-of-date menu is poorly executed, it's surviving, even thriving, because of intelligent design and a lack of competition.

The Coral Room looks like a perfect fit for a new-
urbanist community.
Mark Manger
The Coral Room looks like a perfect fit for a new- urbanist community.

Location Info

Map

Coral Room

3489 W. 32nd Ave.
Denver, CO 80211

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Northwest Denver

Details

7352 East 29th Avenue, 303-321-9463. Hours: 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 5- 10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday (bar open until 2 a.m.); Sunday brunch 9 a.m.- 2 p.m.

Tempura prawns: $6
Spring rolls: $6
Tuna stack: $9
Lobster-and- shrimp cake: $10
Coconut curry: $13
Honey-soy chicken: $14.50
Pork chop: $16
Filet mignon: $24

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Still, if there's one hard-and-fast rule in nature, it's that entropy rules. Even the Galapagos didn't stay isolated forever.

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