By Kevin Galaba
By Mark Antonation
By Gretchen Kurtz
By Cafe Society
By Mark Antonation
By Mark Antonation
By Jonathan Shikes
By Mark Antonation
Yes, there are other cities that harbor their own singular burger geniuses, sleepy small towns in which freakish wild talents have set themselves along the path of greatness. There's Solly's Grille in Wisconsin, which serves upwards of three or four hundred butter burgers every day (a butter burger being just what it sounds like -- a burger topped with a dollop of butter). New Haven has Louis' Lunch, where the hamburger -- but not the cheeseburger -- may (or may not) have been invented in 1900. Schaller's in Rochester does one king-hell cheeseburger on a hard roll with a special hot sauce (made of ground beef and jellied fire, near as I can tell) that makes it unique among all hometown iterations on the beef-patty theme. And, of course, there will always be Tommy's Original World Famous in Los Angeles. There will always be In-N-Out and Duke's next to the Whisky A Go-Go, where I once had one of the greatest cheeseburgers of my life -- its ranking unnaturally inflated because I hadn't eaten in three days at the time and had just picked a fight with a guy I thought was Ben Affleck. Granted, it might not actually have been Ben Affleck. Considering the state I was in (into my second month of living in my car and bent in a whole variety of amusing ways), it might have been a parking meter -- a mistake anyone could make.
Regardless, Duke's made me a cheeseburger and an order of chili cheese fries I will remember for all my days, and that joint will still be famous long after that bastard Affleck has been reduced to doing third-rate reality shows and selling blood in North Hollywood to pay the rent on his one-bedroom bungalow in Rancho Cucamonga.
Man, I hate that guy. Even if he was just a parking meter.
Anyway, L.A. has some damn fine burger spots. And while the City of Angels may be the nostalgic front-runner in terms of that car-cult, drive-in, American Graffiti gestalt, Denver wins the burger-king title for sheer volume and dedication to the craft.
We have hundreds of burger places here, dozens of which have moved beyond mere goodness and are aspiring to that charmed high ground of super-cultural greatness, and a couple that have transcended even that plane and joined the ranks of the cheeseburger angels -- heavenly joints where a burger isn't just a burger, but a brief commune with something much larger.
On its best nights, the Cherry Cricket (see review) is right up there, its green-chile cheeseburger topped only by the one found out in the radioactive desert surrounding San Antonio, New Mexico, at the original Owl Bar. If it weren't for my weird obsession with Cold War ghost towns and nuclear zombies and that image of green-chile-scented mushroom clouds towering over the American Southwest, I might be tempted to say that the Cricket's green-chile burger is the Owl's equal. But maybe that's just because Cherry Creek is a whole lot closer to me now.
Denver also has Griff's at 742 South Broadway (and another one out in Arvada), which is my hands-down favorite survivor of the drive-thru burger wars. Unfortunately, when I reviewed Griff's ("Cheeseburgers in Paradise," October 2, 2003) the place caught fire and nearly burned to the ground the very next day. Coincidence? Probably. But now that it's been rebuilt, I'm not taking any chances. Let's just say I love it and leave it at that.
The Mile High City also has its various Burger Havens (Grandpa's, Jim's and Tami's), each keeping alive a piece of American burger history -- Jim's capturing the muscle-car-and-Little-League mystique of days gone by, Grandpa's keeping alive the drive-up, hole-in-the-wall shack concept. I have no idea where Tami's fits into the equation -- or into this burger-centric family -- but I recognize Jim's and Grandpa's as touchstones back to the golden age of the cheeseburger, missing links between the old urban masters and today's highly evolved fast-food excesses.
In Aurora, Johnny's Diner (2323 South Havana Street) covers that same cultural territory, filling its walls with the cast-off finery of the Eisenhower era and offering the cash-only, plastic-cafeteria-tray, counter-service model of fast-casual dining perfected in such places long before "fast-casual" was even a concept, before the term became a neo-capitalist catchphrase and selling point for such business deals as the McDonald's/Chipotle IPO. (Which, by the way, went public last week and saw Chipotle's share price double in just one day's trading.)
For pure, unadulterated cheeseburger asceticism (with just a dash of redneck, bike-trash swagger), there's Bud's Bar in Sedalia, the place I would offer the crown of Best Cheeseburger Anywhere were such a thing mine to give. Bud's is singular in its dedication, serving hamburgers, cheeseburgers, doubles of each and nothing else. For decades, Bud's has been selling cheeseburgers (along with beers and shots) to those who know the best when they stumble across it, and doing the same for people who couldn't care less about the best, serving neighbors and tourists and hunters and bikers and anyone who wanders in with the same brand of gruff pride. The last time I felt like a burger at Bud's, I went with my wife and mother-in-law and got thrown out. The joint was busy, the kitchen slammed, regulars waiting -- and when I made the mistake of requesting something to go, I was curtly dismissed. I was fine with that -- tough love and all -- but Laura has yet to forgive them.