Busy Work

Duo gives Denver diners reason to smile.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Mar 9 2006

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Mark Manger

The ultimate neighborhood bar, Duo is always ready to go another round.

Location Info

Map

Duo Restaurant

2413 W. 32nd Ave.
Denver, CO 80211

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Northwest Denver

17 user reviews	Write A Review
	0

Details

2413 West 32nd Avenue, 303-477-4141. Hours: 5 p.m.-close nightly; brunch 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Saturday-Sunday

Leek salad: $5
Cod fritters: $5
Cheese plate: $10/$12
Escolar (sea bass): $17
Venison: $19
Desserts: $6

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We spent more than two hours over dinner, and although the dining room slowly filled to near capacity, no one rushed us. The servers were doting, but not overwhelmingly so, the cooks in the galley tranquil as the orders went in and out. At last, while I waited for my receipt, there was a lull in the back-and-forth, and Broening stepped away from the rail. He passed a few quiet words with his cooks, with the servers clustered up around their station at the end of the pass. He stretched, looked out across the dining room and, finally, smiled. It was quick but huge, his whole face opening up.

And then, quick as it came, it was gone. Another check came in, and all the heads in the kitchen went down. There was an hour of service left yet this night, and although I was done working, Broening never seems to stop.

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