Sum More, Please

Mark Manger

Head chef Wing Bun Lee keeps the home fires burning at Super Star Asian.

Location Info

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Super Star Asian

2200 W. Alameda Ave.
Denver, CO 80223

Category: Restaurant > Chinese

Region: Southwest Denver

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Details

2200 West Alameda Avenue, 303-727- 9889. Hours: 10:30 a.m.- 11 p.m. daily

Steamed pork buns: $1.98
Siu mai: $1.98
Stuffed eggplant: $2.85
Spicy jellyfish: $5.25
Cold chicken feet: $3.75
Lemon chicken: $7.95< br>Wonton soup: $8.95
Shark’s fin soup with crab: $46

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Because I was curious to see how Super Star would make more Americanized dishes, I also tried the lemon chicken. Now I can say with confidence that this kitchen handles faux Asiana just as well as the real thing -- which is to say, better than nearly anyone else. The chicken was breaded in panko and sliced like katsu, the lemon sauce a restrained compound concoction more like a French lemon-Sauternes than anything honestly Chinese.

I've just started to eat my way around Super Star's traditional Chinese dishes, and I plan to keep going back until I've had them all. I've been told that the French beef cubes are excellent. I'm interested in the fish maw soup and the sea cucumber and the duck web, mostly because I didn't know ducks had webs. I'll be there later this week for plain roasted duck, because I have a powerful passion for duck skin when it's done just right -- all crackly and crisp and fatty. And come Saturday (or Sunday, or both), I'll be lining up again along with everyone else, waiting for my turn at the carts, hoping for siu mai and taro balls, praying fervently for rice crêpes, chicken feet and baked poodle ass, and trying to get in ahead of the guy who eats all the eggplant so that this time I can try some for myself.