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On the Lamb

Yanni's shows why great Greek cooking is better than a cuisine.

I bolted down my souvlaki, shoveled in the rice, dug into the side of onions and green beans in a delicate, subtly spicy and rustic tomato gravy. I was dining with three other people, but I have no idea what they ate; I didn't taste it. Instead, I called the waitress back over and ordered myself a plate of that barbecue, please, to go, but please bring it now so that I know the kitchen won't run out. And no sooner had she delivered the Styrofoam box than I started eating the lamb with my fingers, laying it across pieces of leftover pita. I was stuffed, but I wasn't going to stop. This was the cleanest, purest ingredient high I'd gotten off a dish since discovering sushi, since my first perfect bowl of mussels nearly fifteen years ago. Finally, I had to take the box out to the car just to stop myself from eating it all on the spot.

Opa! Yanni Stavropolous gives Yanni's Greek 
Taverna his best shot.
Mark Manger
Opa! Yanni Stavropolous gives Yanni's Greek Taverna his best shot.

Location Info

Map

Yanni's Greek Restaurant

5425 Landmark Place
Englewood, CO 80111

Category: Restaurant > Greek

Region: Southeast Denver Suburbs

Details

2223 South Monaco Parkway, 303-692- 0404. Hours: 11 a.m.-"very late" Monday- Saturday; 5-10 p.m. Sunday

Dolmades: $4.95
Tiri: $3.95
Loukaniko: $5.95
Spanikopita: $7.95
Saganaki: $6.95
Skordalia: $4.95
Mythia: $10.95
Lamb souvlaki: $13.95
Pastitsio: $12.95

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And then I came back in and sat down. I nibbled at a bit of European-tasting bread still left in our table's basket. Full as I was, I wasn't quite done yet, so I waited for the waitress to come by again, then asked what she had for dessert.

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