On the Lamb

Yanni's shows why great Greek cooking is better than a cuisine.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Apr 13 2006

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Mark Manger

Opa! Yanni Stavropolous gives Yanni's Greek Taverna his best shot.

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Yanni's Greek Restaurant

5425 Landmark Place
Englewood, CO 80111

Category: Restaurant > Greek

Region: Southeast Denver Suburbs

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Details

2223 South Monaco Parkway, 303-692- 0404. Hours: 11 a.m.-"very late" Monday- Saturday; 5-10 p.m. Sunday

Dolmades: $4.95
Tiri: $3.95
Loukaniko: $5.95
Spanikopita: $7.95
Saganaki: $6.95
Skordalia: $4.95
Mythia: $10.95
Lamb souvlaki: $13.95
Pastitsio: $12.95

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I bolted down my souvlaki, shoveled in the rice, dug into the side of onions and green beans in a delicate, subtly spicy and rustic tomato gravy. I was dining with three other people, but I have no idea what they ate; I didn't taste it. Instead, I called the waitress back over and ordered myself a plate of that barbecue, please, to go, but please bring it now so that I know the kitchen won't run out. And no sooner had she delivered the Styrofoam box than I started eating the lamb with my fingers, laying it across pieces of leftover pita. I was stuffed, but I wasn't going to stop. This was the cleanest, purest ingredient high I'd gotten off a dish since discovering sushi, since my first perfect bowl of mussels nearly fifteen years ago. Finally, I had to take the box out to the car just to stop myself from eating it all on the spot.

And then I came back in and sat down. I nibbled at a bit of European-tasting bread still left in our table's basket. Full as I was, I wasn't quite done yet, so I waited for the waitress to come by again, then asked what she had for dessert.

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