Yak to the Future

After a century, the Buckhorn Exchange is still pleased to meat you.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, May 18 2006

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Although the Big Steak was accompanied by sautéed mushrooms and onions and garlic-spiked maître d' butter, the kitchen was wise enough to put all of these on the side, because purists know that vegetables, cooked fungus and a prophylactic smear of curded milk fat do nothing but get in the way of the natural excellence of a good piece of beef. A salad and some garlic mashed potatoes came on the side, too. As far as I was concerned, they might as well have been garnish.

While the Big Steak didn't rank in my top five steaks of all time, it did rate the second strata -- which is really saying something, because I have eaten a lot of excellent steaks over the years. And Barry (who has eaten even more excellent steaks, and at better addresses) was equally pleased -- surprised, even, because he is hard to satisfy and would have gladly stalked, cursing and shouting, from the dining room had the kitchen offended him with a piece of beef of less than superior quality. The cursing and shouting are one of the reasons I like to bring Barry along on these outings. I don't get to tell people what I think of their food face to face. But Barry, he never stops.

Mark Manger

Animal attraction: The Buckhorn Exchange features critters on the wall as well as on your plate.

Location Info

Map

Buckhorn Exchange

1000 Osage St.
Denver, CO 80204

Category: Restaurant > Steakhouse

Region: Central Denver

7 user reviews	Write A Review
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Details

1000 Osage Street, 303-534-9505. Hours: 11 a.m.-close Monday-Friday; 5 p.m.- close Saturday-Sunday

Rattlesnake: $15.50
Alligator: $9.75< br>Rocky Mountain oysters: $8.50
Buffalo tips: $9.25
Two-pound �Big Steak�: $83
Lamb: $27
Red snapper: $27

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And all of the people at the Buckhorn -- the staff of both floor and desk -- were wonderful, bending to our every whim and going out of their way to take care of us (our server even offered to have the chef hold a portion of yak meat for dinner the next night if I was interested). When I had gotten stuck in traffic, the hostess had held my reservation. When Barry was late, they'd seen me comfortably seated at the bar and supplied with enough booze to keep me occupied until his arrival. They answered all of my questions and Barry's demands during dinner, and when we both complimented the house on a sublimely, decadently wonderful slice of apple pie topped with ice cream and cinnamon rum sauce, our server seemed truly happy that we were so happy (yak or no yak) and beamed like the sun when she saw us -- finally -- sated, stuffed with beef and pie, and ready for the bill.

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