An Appetite for Adventure

Chopsticks makes normal into something special.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Jun 22 2006

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Mark Manger

All in the family: Chopsticks has something for everyone.

Location Info

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Chopsticks China Bistro

5117 S. Yosemite St.
Englewood, CO 80111

Category: Restaurant > Chinese

Region: Southeast Denver Suburbs

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Details

China Bistro, 2990 West Mississippi Avenue, 303-936-1506. Hours: 11 a.m.- midnight daily

Egg and crab dumplings: $7.95
Pork dumplings: $6.25
Beef shank: $4.95
Jellyfish salad: $6.50
Beef with garlic sauce: $9.95
Flaming pig�s intestines: $8.95
Pork with Peking sauce: $9.95
Sesame pocket: $6.95< br>Yellow fish with garlic: $10.95

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Even so, I returned to Chopsticks, of course. My experiment done, I just couldn't resist the beef shank rubbed in Chinese five-spice powder and served cold; the steamed cabbage flecked with salty, pungent commas of dried baby shrimp; the whole braised yellow fish in red-chile sauce served with twenty bulbs of whole roasted garlic. If I learned anything from my attempt at normalcy, it's that everyone eats sandwiches, that barbecue is barbecue no matter where it comes from, and that even something as dull as lo mein can be a pleasure when cooked by a skilled galley also adept at cooking frogs and pig's guts. I learned that while I'm certainly not missing much by disdaining the normal in a general sense, those who embrace it can still get some dining kicks, provided they choose their destinations well. Not every great culinary adventure has to have frogs or pig's guts as the main course. Sometimes something as simple as a sandwich will suffice. But when it's a toss-up between psychology and appetite, appetite wins every time.

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