Pancake Apocalypse

Mark Manger

Snooze caters to early-morning -- and very late-night - - crowds.

Location Info

Map

Snooze

2262 Larimer St.
Denver, CO 80205

Category: Restaurant > Breakfast

Region: Downtown Denver

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Snooze

700 N. Colorado Blvd.
Denver, CO 80206

Category: Restaurant > Breakfast

Region: Central Denver

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Snooze

144 W. Mountain Ave.
Fort Collins, CO 80524

Category: Restaurant > Breakfast

Region: Northern Colorado

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Snooze

6781 S. York St.
Littleton, CO 80122

Category: Restaurant > Breakfast

Region: Southeast Denver Suburbs

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Details

2262 Larimer Street, 303-297-0700, www.snoozedenver.com. Hours: 6 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; 1:30 a.m.- 2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

Oatmeal brûlée: $5
Breakfast tacos w/bacon: $7
Pancakes: $7
Pancake flight: $8
Breakfast burrito w/ sausage: $9

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More About

• Jon Schlegel
• Charlton Heston
• Chevrolet Impala
• Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

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If nothing else, Schlegel deserves credit for bringing last-call pancakes to the scurrying Let Out refugees. His is not a great restaurant, but it's a successful restaurant: pretty but vacant, stylish but hollow, more place than action and more scene than anything else. As a restaurant built for people who care less about what's on the menu than how they look ordering from that menu, it's ideal. As a middle-of-the-night refuge in a neighborhood that has no other, it's handy when the zombies are on the prowl. And I'm sure there will be nights when I'll be thankful to see Schlegel standing by his front door like the Omega Man himself, bathed in light and the smell of warm syrup.

But Snooze is a restaurant that delivers on everything it promises only because it promises so little. And as I get up to leave -- paying my bill and brushing past Schlegel, who's already got his eye on the street for the next potential party -- all I can think is that I'd been hoping for something more.