Chapter Two BBQ and Grill

There was a time when this barbecue joint was one of the best in the city, back when it was known as Chapter One BBQ and Grill ("Two for the Road," October 6, 2005). But sometime earlier this year, original owners Bonnie and Jerome Sims moved on, a big "Two" was plastered right over the "One" in the sign -- and the barbecue immediately went downhill. Which was weird, because nothing but the sign -- and the folks behind the counter -- seemed to have changed. The old camping trailer that Jerome had used as his smoker was still there. The interior (no air conditioning, just big fans, and a TV by the front door) looked the same. And even the menu appeared untouched. Still, the barbecue was awful, and I swore I'd never go back -- a promise I kept for nearly four months, until curiosity got the better of me last week. I wish I could say that Chapter Two has turned the page, that the barbecue's fantastic. But that's not the case. Yes, the Mexican family that now runs the place is trying hard, and the service is very friendly. But while the food has improved, this is still not the great barbecue I remember from ten months ago. At Chapter Two, the ribs have the consistency of pudding, having been cooked so long that the meat pretty much falls off the bone if you look at it cross-eyed. The dry rub is peppery and overpowering, the smoke flavor too weak. And while the pulled pork is decent -- although oddly damp -- the sauce is far too sweet and gloppy for my tastes. It's possible that this location may still be returned to its former, smoky glory. But that will be another chapter.